Watches and Wonders 2022 brought together the most luxurious and prestigious watchmakers in the world. I select the standout pieces that have caught my eye, either because of their striking designs or their mechanical accomplishments, and many of these watches tick both of those boxes.
The major trends oppose each other. On the one hand, elaborate complications and new finishes are gaining ground and on the other, sharp minimalism is on the rise. Those in the minimalist camp include Cartier’s all-black Tank Louis Cartier, H. Moser’s Perpetual Calendar, Parmigiani’s neat Tonda GMT Rattrapante, Laurent Ferrier’s Sport Auto, Ressence’s Type 8 and ProPilot X Caliber 400 from Oris.
Elaborate complications were seen in the Arceau Le temps voyageur by Hermès, an all-new world time complication with a touch of whimsy. Chopard’s LUC Full Strike Sapphire minute repeater in a sapphire crystal case with gongs of the same material is an impressive feat of high quality watchmaking in a high-tech case. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Caliber 945 Atomium completes the impressive collection of Jaeger-LeCoultre celestial watches that follow the movement of the stars in real time.
The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept watch is only a staggering 2mm thick. Although it was launched in 2018, this new version pays homage to the original by adding details alluding to its “birth” such as Super-Luminova stars reflecting the night sky on its birthday as well as the location GPS and date of this event. . One of the most striking developments came from TAG Heuer with the Carrera Plasma Diamant D’Avant Garde concept watch which, for the first time in the watch industry, not only uses lab-grown diamonds, but pushes them to their limits. . The watch set with these man-made gemstones and the crown is cut from a single diamond while the dial is a large fusion of smaller diamonds, grown specifically for this watch, suggesting that we are only beginning to see this what lab-grown diamonds could do in the watch industry.
The focus on finishes is gaining momentum with examples like IWC’s bold new ceramic cases in hues ranging from mossy green to sandy beige. Panerai is also stepping out of its color safe zone with the brilliant emerald green QuarantaQuattro eSteel™ Verde Smeraldo – and it’s made largely of recycled materials. Patek Philippe introduced an all-new Calatrava case with a studded band on the side as well as a new dial finish inspired by old-school cameras. Blue is still the dominant color of the dials, but in lighter tones and with emphasis on different finishes to add depth.
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Mapping the night sky is a specialty of Jaeger-LeCoultre and the Caliber 945 Master Hybris Artistica tourbillon movement is now treated with a richly decorated dial, which displays the constellations in real time. The gold filigree bars represent the links that make up the constellations.
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Panerai’s QuarantaQuattro eSteel™ Submersible uses recycled steel as the company aims to reduce its carbon footprint. The dial and bezel of this 44mm watch are in emerald green and the watch can withstand immersions up to 300 meters. The wristbands are made of recycled PET plastic or recycled rubber.
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IWC uses colored ceramic throughout its range. This Pilot’s Watch Chronograph is inspired by the color of Top Gun pilots’ uniforms known as Woodland Green. The caseback and other details are made of ultra-lightweight and durable black Ceratanium®.
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The Oris ProPilot X Caliber 400 is in a titanium case and incorporates details from the world of aviation. Caliber 400 is an automatic movement with a five-day power reserve.
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Hermès reinvents the world time watch with the Arceau Le temps voyageur. The small dial that tells the time rotates around the clock face to tell the time in 24 different cities around the world.
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The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto watch captures the understated style of the house known for its limited production and superior mechanics. This model is inspired by the aesthetics of sports cars with an oversized curved glass. The movement is automatic and features a micro rotor visible through the sapphire case back.
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H.Moser & Cie. presents a special commemorative limited edition Endeavor Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue, featuring markings on the dial that explain how this easiest-to-read perpetual calendar works. This family-owned watch company is known for its simple yet surprisingly colorful dials.
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The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G exudes a vintage air thanks to the textured finish of the dial reminiscent of camera bodies and the beige hands and markings on the dial. This is a brand new Calatrava case with a studded branding strip on the side.
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This version of the Louis Cartier Tank adopts a minimalist look with its sleek black dial devoid of any markings. The case is in yellow gold and houses the mechanical manufacture movement with manual winding 1917 MC.
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Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept is just 2mm thick. This extraordinary achievement was first presented in 2018 and this year sees the addition of details such as the date of its creation and the main plate is decorated with stars painted in Super-LumiNova® which echo the sky above. top of the Piaget Manufacture on the day of the watch. has been created.
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Parmigiani’s Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante brings sleek minimalism to this best-selling model. The GMT function of a second time zone is ensured by the gold hand which, when not in use, thanks to the split-seconds function, returns to its place above the hour hand.
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The remarkable Chopard LUC Full Strike Sapphire is a minute repeater that strikes the hours, quarters and minutes in a transparent sapphire crystal. Five patents have been filed for the LUC 08.01-L movement, which comprises 533 different parts.
